Tulsa

Hey guys, this is very late notice, but we are hosting a tourney out here in Lubbock this weekend and wanted to see if you guys were interested in coming. The info is available over at Hub City Hardcourt on this here Internet website. Hope you guys can make it! We have places for everyone to stay too.

You can play with color combinations here http://www.tennisuniversal.com/List/156/0/Color_Chart_with_Court_Layouts...

The Light Green and the Beige might be good under all lighting conditions. This paint is $87 a gallon with sand in it, no tax no delivery calcualed.

It would take some label reading down at "The Store" to see if that is Acrylic latex, whic I doubt.

I do know we can get our own sand chep enough.

If you flip through the DIY part, you can tell they are pouring out paint, and sweeping the paint with brooms to apply it.

I am sure there is a paint calculator on the site, I haven't looked that hard yet.

Jeff

Good morning if you are awake early, or maybe it's time to GO TO BED!!! I am out here on O/T, and already worked almost 2 hours. So, we are taking a short break.

If Colin is reading this, and has time, zip me an email. I have your mallet finished, with options. The options would be a few different heads. So I have not yet lock tighted the screw. It would be best to lock tight it today, this evening or whatever.The current, and best head is 75 grams, just like your old head. Oveall weight is 380 grams. There are larger and fewer lightning holes in the mallet head.

Your mallet handle got about 1.5 inches shorter due to worn out hole, and cut back for the new type screw in shaft installation. I added dowel inside to lengthen your handle, and put an old MTB Grip on it. It is really nice and cushy. The length was returned to the back end in case the 3 inch dowel added weight, it is in your palm, not the end of your mallet.

But if it is not to your liking, we can cut it back to your original hockey tape end point before your PVC end cap. Your PVC end cap had bit the dust BTW, cracked to pieces.

I will bring some tools, someone bring hocky tape to finsh/modify this mallet if Colin shows up.

There are also some other interesting options that can be done to these mallet heads, we can talk about Sunday. I am going to do one of my own to experiment with.

I want to get some more HDPE, Yellow and black. We could replace that straight yellow HDPE with a bent black one, and get roll ouot onthe ball when it goes in that corner. Let me know on the pipe, I would like to get some after work.
Jeff

This is where I read about the method of attaching mallet heads to poles I am using.

http://321polo.net/2011/09/simple-mallet-mounting-style-is-straight-sex/

I have a couple of variations on mounting from his description.

I start by determining how much to cut to have the screw go into the nut inside the shaft about 4 turns. You can 'dip stick' into the hole, touch the nut, then pull your 'dipstick' back out, mark the shaft, and cut appropriately for your screw to start into the nut. I then run the countersunk screw down pretty tight on the end of the shaft to set the nut inside the shaft. Then I cut my teeth into the end of the shaft with a triangle file.

I countersink the screw head end on the pipe a bit more than 50% of what I want the countersink to end up like for depth.

I do not use a 1/2 inch drill bit, I use a 4 fluted 3/8 core drill followed by a 7/16 inch rotory file run in my die grinder.

After the 7/16 cone rotory file will pass straight through the hole, I heat the ski pole slightly with my propane torch, and slide it into the hole. I only heat it enough to insure it still takes a bit of force to pass the pole into the hole until the end of the pole touches the hole for the screw inside the HDPE pipe. We do not want to burn/melt the pipe with a hot ski pole, just soften it for the pole pass through the undersized hole, the teeth on the end biting into the pipe fully, and the countersink ending up perfect.

Then I run the 1/4 inch screw in with my screw driver, carefully watching the screw head depth into that shallow countersink. The top on these stainless screws is not flat, but slightly rounded, and I do not try to make that rounded head 'disappear' into the countersink, just the beveled edge.

I came to do this because I noted while experimenting and finding that a perfect countersink would pull too far into the head, leaving just a very thin amount of pipe between the screw countersink and the shaft.

Colin's head was the last mounted, and it came out the best. The upper part of the shaft is tightly gripped by the pipe because the hole was undersized and the hot pole softened the pipe allowing the pole to pass through. Same for the teeth filed into the end of the pole on the inside of the pipe opposite the countersink.
It seems after cool down the pipe remembered it wanted to recover some of it's orignal size, and gripped the pole tightly. Colin's head can be removed and reinstalled, but it is tight on the pole. That's because I do not drill a straight 1/2 inch hole, but rather end up with a tapered hole, matching the tapered shaft that made it using heat. Sort of like a taper lock fastener on aircraft.
Jeff

fyi OK is invited to the Wild West Bench minor in NM. dates look like memorial day May 26/27. Hit us up let us know whatcha think. State vs. State