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Boards

Just wondering what people think about boards. It seems that they are really nice for playing on but there are a couple of different options and since they do cost money it is probably a good idea to figure out what people like before they are installed for big tournaments. One thing that i have noticed that makes a big difference is the manner in which the boards have bounce back on them. Some places like NYC have rock as the wall and the ball has a lot of play after it goes in but in places like DC and Ottawa they used plywood and the ball was deadend a bit after the ball hit it. I have been thinking about this and my ideal would be boards that have a lot of bounce on the sidelines and maybe a bit of deading on the baselines. This way the shots have less rebounds but you can still use the sidelines for nice passes.

I love the boards. Ours were taken down (city bylaw thing), so it's back to the wire fence. It dampens the ball and sometimes even wedges it underneath the gnarled trimming, and the poles being on the inside sometimes meet with my shoulder but it's just a matter of getting used to it. I feel spoiled when there's boards.

Real hockey and roller hockey rink boards are made of a polyethylene sheet good known as "marine board" or "sea board". It's just a U.V. stabilized PE product, so it doesn't rot in the sun. You could buy a relatively thin sheet of it and put it over plywood boards to get a little more bounce, or you could buy thicker material and use it as the board itself.

St Louis roller hockey rinks use both systems. They play the same as far as I can tell. In my experience, having the right ball for the ambient temperature makes more difference on the rebound than wood vs plastic boards.

Chicago Bike Polo 2003-2008

St Louis Bike Polo 2008-now

Wanna buy some polo stuff?
http://www.fixcraft.net/stcago

The boards in Toronto were annoying because they seemed to 'suck' the ball - i.e. no matter how hard you hit the ball it wouldn't bounce off, it would instead roll along the wall. I immediately felt bad remembering this, because Brian, Wayne, Reg and the rest of that crazy polo construction crew obviously spent tons of time (and money) on building the walls. Don't even want to think about how it must have sucked to break them down and cart them away.

It is all about the money. Plywood walls need a lot of framing inside to get a good rebound. The PE board that Lucky is refering to would help. For sure any board is better than the fence. We had to take the boards down in Ottawa but are going to get the city do a reinstall with a permanent set up. Saftey and liability is the first concern with our city folk so they insisted that nothing was permanent. Plus we wanted to keep the lumber. In Toronto there was not enough $$$ to build what was planned. But given the resources it worked out.(we left that there) If you can get the boards to have zero give you can get the rebound your looking for. It really is a issue of how solid the strucure is and not the material covering it. Coroplast would work in a pinch too. If you have the money check out www.backyardrinks.com. For about ten grand you can get the real dasher boards.

Brian is right in that, with wood, the construction is the important part not really the material. When we (in DC) first rebuilt our boards they were extremely lively, but the foundation wasn't set well and they've loosened up since.

We call our boards the curb.

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Moooooo!

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Moooooo!

i find that cement doesn't give that much, even after repeated usage...

you're just not playing hard enough. i've been pounding on one spot for a while (ben and jonny have been teaching me how to stay on my bike) and i think its starting to give.

aah mid-west style, i love it.

We just played in a tennis court and used masonite connected with zipties. It sort of worked out. Corners were rounded at least and it kept the ball from going in a lot of gaps. Cost us less than $50 for two courts. It is a little hard to transport though... considering doing the same thing, except plastic for the next one. We used them for a recent tournament over here in Orlando. We normally don't use anything, but figured since it's a tournament, we should try to keep the ball in play as much as possible. Corners suck.

Bike Polo

obw298

That's a pretty nice lookin' solution there. If you put a decent alkyd porch paint on it, or used marine board (UV stabilized polyethylene) it may last a little longer. But for sure, 50 bones to have a smoother tournament is pretty high value.

Chicago Bike Polo 2003-2008
St Louis Bike Polo 2008-now

Wanna buy some polo stuff?
http://www.fixcraft.net/stcago

I like our court, especially that we have boards that work really well.

check it.

http://legitbikepolo.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/allstoncourtsmall.jpg

man, that court is great. I had a lot of fun playing pick up there.

Edges.

We've developed a pretty neat system here in Melbourne over the past week, based on input from Victoria (BC) and other North American inspiration... and not to mention. LEGO.

(stop press, I wrote this last week, and now I've made a handy PDF... enjoy)

I'm sure there's way more of you out there who are super advanced past this stage... But I think this could really help those people out there who are having trouble finding space in their cities that is: smooth, level AND enclosed...

Here's the lowdown...

In short, you can build yourself edges to completly contain a court. But it's not about building the edges once and then having to lug around bits of wood in a trailer (or car!) every week.

What you'll need:
A drill with a 10mm bit (or equiv 7/16?)
A hand saw
A bag of cable ties (preferably releasable)
http://www.cabletiesexpress.com/releasable_cable_ties.html

And...
A pile of scavenged wood, planks etc, of various lengths and thickness.
Lots of short lengths or a few lengths.
A short piece of chain
a combination padlock

At every end of each plank, drill a 10mm hole 2cm in from the end, 2cm in from the side of the plank. Drill another hole 3cm above (2cm in and 5cm high)

____> ~ ^
|o o |5cm
| |4
| |3
|o o |2cm
|____> ~ <_____|1
2cm

We did this last Saturday and scavenged in laneways and found a surprisingly large amount of wood in a short time.

_____
| o \
| \
| \
| o \
|__________\

With some shorter pieces of wood, cut pieces 20cm (10 inches) long and cut them diagonally in half to create small triangles. Make dozens and dozens of these triangles.
Drill each one 2cm in and 2cm high in the corner, drill another hole 2cm in and 5cm high from the flat end.

Now using your zip ties, zip the whole lot together (see photos)

You could even use string, just like tying shoelaces.

Add more support triangles to any part of a plank by drilling more holes and attaching triangular blocks.

This will give you a flat continuous edge. you can create curved edges by placing your shorter segaments near corners.

After your initial setup workshop you could either:
equally divide all your 1m/3foot lengths between players.
stash them in the bushes

drill/holesaw a 1 inch hole at the end of each plank and lock them all to something nearby, and share the combination amongst players

Stash the longer heavier pieces and take the nicer pieces home.

Stash planks and triangles at multiple courts and everyones pieces will always work together.

Section off an entire court in the middle of the desert, or fill that annoying gap with a 'playable edge'

You could equally divide the triangles amongst players or just scatter them in the bushes nearby... make so many that you'll never go short.

I'll have to admit, last week, I was really thinking that we'd need to go and buy some nice wood, but this system worked so well that not only now am I on the look out for ski poles and plumbing pipe wherever I go, now I'm obsessed with straight pieces of wood, and less obsessed with finding a nicely contained space to play in!

Now I can concentrate on finding flat, smooth level uncontained spaces rather than contained or partially contained spaces that are either not level or smooth.

It's astounding that it has taken so long to finally get around to this, it's so simple I am kicking myself. We have been chasing the ball for so long!

With a few more weeks of drilling and cutting more wood in between games and making sure regular players have a few dozen cable ties in the bottom of their bag, I reckon we'll be set for summer!

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urbanbicyclist.org

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bikepolo.com.au
urbanbicyclist.org

i would suggest you find some taller wood for the end boards behind the goal mainly so when shots get lifted a bit they dont go over the boards and being as shots are the faster hits the ball travels farther if missing boards!

we have a system of zip tied boards on our downtown tennis court fences but just ends and corners right now. slowly waiting for spring again to see if the boards will stay up!

Has anyone set up boards that can be easily put up and broken down on a regular basis, such as for use in a parking lot? That's what we've been playing on in DTLA, and it's about time we set up a perimeter to keep play on the court - but we wouldn't be able to leave them up between games.

Ride, bake, polo, repeat.

Ride, bake, polo, repeat.

You know, I was reading through the thread, and I thought the post directly above yours sounded like it had the perfect solution for DTLA. Maybe more info about how that worked out as a long term set up?

polopolopolopolopolopolopolopolopolopolopolopolopolopolopolopolo

i think pensacola got kicked off those courts. i think atlanta uses a zip tie system at their campus tennis courts. might want to ask one of those guys (i know braxis07 is atl).

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carve. smash. eat shit.

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carve. smash. eat shit.

1/2 INCH PLAY WOOD WORKS THE BEST
WE GOT ARES FROM STAGE COMPANY
IF YOU CALL AROUND TO STAGE COMPANY
THEN MIGHT HAVE PLTWOOD THAT THEY
CANT USE ANYMORE SOME TIMES CHEAP OF FREEE

two asshole's don't make it right"
BUTT three asshole's make a good team"