Machine Politics vs L'Équipe, August 2010. Photo by Steph Simcox
My bike done breaked apart.
Collar City Bike Polo
the j is for jesse
Troy, NY: 2008 - 2010
Seattle, WA: 2010 - 2013
Austin, TX? polo!???
Yes, sir. Montana did it.
Awesome! This looks a lot liek the Ritchey system.
slapdick bike polo - washington dc
Same idea up top, but a beefier system on the down tube.
Are you gonna have it with you this weekend? Jen and I have been talking about getting bikes coupled, and if his work is reliable, I'd love to give Montana some money for it.
If? Wow, thanks for the big vote of confidence.
Well, you did describe yourself as a "volunteer cat herder" not a frame builder. For all we know, this could have been done with soup cans and bubble gum.
Chicago Bike Polo 2003-2008
St Louis Bike Polo 2008-now
Actually, that title was for Kev and his maintenance of the forum, but it was given with full awareness that it is also an apt description of my efforts with the Fed.
Hey man, no offense, but I don't know anything about your welding skills.
I mean, I wouldn't ever ride a bike that I welded. Maybe Mark is just more adventurous than I? Who knows, but I'll talk to you about it this weekend. How long did it take you? Wanna weld a new rear brake bridge for me while you're at it?
Montana used to work at Bilenky. I would trust him more than some dude with an arc welder or something. Bro knows what he is doing. You'll see it tomorrow.
Ah, see - I had no idea. I knew he knows his way around tools and bikes, but I didn't know he could weld/build bikes. Looking forward to it.
what about with the frame nowadays? Is it still working? any experiences?
You no longer using clipless mark?
Nah, I'm using the same pedals I've had for 3 years or so on my polo bike exclusively. Crank Brothers 'mallet c'.
why have the platforms if you are using clipless, I figured that one benefit of using clipless would be the lack of pedal strikes.
You get a better power transfer and something to stand on if you aren't clipped in. When I ride Eggbeaters at polo sometimes my foot will slip off the pedal if I try to stand on it before having time to clip in, but this probably happens way less on a freewheel bike.
I liked using the Candys, but then one of the arms bent and the engagement area wouldn't spin through the platform anymore. That was frustrating.
I was never really too worried about pedal strikes, since I switched from playing fixed a few years ago. Originally I got platforms because I used my polo bike as my bar bike, and I didn't want to have to rock cycling shoes every time I road that bike. But like Ryan said, the platform helps, especially with crank brothers, cause if you miss you will end up rolling your foot all the way off the pedal with the eggbeaters.
I'm gonna get off the plane looking exactly like this...
Hey, 2 1/2 years later, how are you liking that backpack? Is it holding up? If it isn't, can you send it back for repairs? I went and got me one of those break-apart bikes, and now I need a bag for it.
Nice work Montana!
I have been thinking of a Travelers Check(Surly)
Have you added couplers to Steamroller?
The cross check has S and S couplers on it. You could add them to your Steamroller no problem. They will cost a good bit of loot, but will look fantastic.
You do realize that your bike will be much harder to find in 2 pieces.
You have to go out of town to get inside jokes.
hahaha...I never thought of that. I guess I should plan on seeing it in 2 separate trash cans or something.
I very seriously considered a breakaway or s&s coupled bike when I was building up my touring rig. This consideration may or may not apply to traveling for bike polo; but in the end, I decided not to because none of the travel bags/cases broke down or became panniers or anything. A cardboard bike box I can leave at the airport/train station/bus depot and pick up a new one at any bike shop on my way out of town again.
The Ritchey hard case would become a huge burden on a bike trip if I wasn't going to be picked up at the station or have a place to put stuff.
Just another thing to think about.
but you dont need the hard case you can just cut down a bike box and then make it under the requirements for checked baggage and not have to pay the extra for a "bike" and then wa lah no hardcase to cart around.
pcola is correct, so what you are saying makes no sense. Even if you get it in a 26x26x10 cardboard box you won't have to pay the $100 oversize fee. The only reason to couple your bike is to get it in some sort of carrying device with said measurements.
Also...If you looked at the picture of the very happy man with a backpack on, you can see that I am getting the soft case (which actually has plastic panels on the side). With the soft case, it will collapse so that you can wear it as a smaller backpack, and actually carry things in it. Thus disproving your theory of there being NO travel bags/cases that break down.
So noted. I sit here corrected.
Hi all, quick new question. When you have your bike all chopped up and under airline dimensions. What do you do with your mallets?
hey Damon. i'm not sure of the s&s bag, but there are a few options for this. i've been using a backpack that was made by a guy here in Seattle. it looks like a messenger pack, and works really well with or without the bike in it. the downside is i have to stash mallets in other peoples bags due to the shape and size of it. we have a polo player here (kelsey) that is making some bike bags, she's made a few that break down really small but still fit like 2 or 3 mallets. it's more or less a duffel bag with a shoulder strap, best design i've seen so far.
I take the head off and put the pole(s) in a small poster tube thats about 1" in diameter and carry on.
I have flown with a mallet with its head on and sticking out of a bag with no problem, but I know of others who had to check theirs for whatever reason. Really depends on the guy working security.
Mallet head removal and a separate pole container (carry on or not) may be the key
Unless I can get some 18mm couplers for mallets :)
heres a totally not to scale mockup I just did in illustrator.
I've been thinking about this- most airlines allow you to bring a second hockey stick bag as part of your single bag of equipment. I plan to try taping a ski bag to the s&s bag in that vein.
Just found this.
Not sure why they went with 6061, 19mm, I'd prefer a 18mm tapered 7075
those poles are already pretty heavy. i can't imagine that this feature makes them any lighter.
carve. smash. eat shit.
my friend in atlanta has been using one of those two piece eighth crappers. it is heavy and doesnt stay tightened.
At least they're consistent...
Loctite might be the answer.
loctite would work but i'll just make my own.
Keep your standards low, and morale high.
will, wouldn't loctite negate the main feature of the pole, which is to be collapsed for portability?
Blue loctite (or even teflon tape) is great for threaded objects that tend to unscrew themselves.
I am getting couplers put on ASAP and getting a backpack made right as we speak. If you are going to travel it is the way to go. Justin in Calgary can order them and do it possibly while you are here some time if you talk to him? just a thought.
I need a sugar momma so I can work less and play polo more!!
Also there I have a buddy that is making my bicycle carrying backpack and I am going to post the updates of making it on the NA's Facebook page. it should be a week or so if yall want to check it out?
s&s frame 51cm on ebay
Up for auction is a 1996 Fire engine Red Co-Motion CO PILOT OR Frameset with S&S couplings.
Included is:51cm Frame and Touch-up Paint , S&S Coupler tool, Seat Post Clamp.
Frame is designed for 26 inch wheels.
Paint shines like new and has very minor flaws( See all 33 Pictures below)
Frame Dimension: Top tube C-C is 23 inches, Seat tube C-top is 20 inches/ 51cm,
Stand over height 30 inches.
Handmade in the USA
Reynolds 531 All Terrain tubing Frameset which only weighs 4.45 lbs.
good price right now
Noice one maaate.
So jealous, I will be saving now.
MTL scored a 'strayan to offset this kiwi, we're tying to collect the whole commonwealth set.
Dingo, your bike looks alot like mine. Nice.
How vulnerable to getting bent are the unsupported tubes once uncoupled and packed?
My seat tube got bent in my bike bag on a flight cause the seat post wasn't in. I'd be worried about the baggage handlers throwing it etc.
London / Melburn
I reckon it could happen, I'm making a bag that will hold everything in the right place with some padding in between each piece. There may be scope for a plumbing pipe or ski pole bracket/spacer too.
As in "If you ain from Lundun, ya dun know."
Was actually just mixing London and Melburn...
Haha, Meldon is good!
I really need to get a current photo of this paint job. It's looking like someone got it with a shotgun.
Im looping for a smala frame with couplers for m'y travel in n'a this NeXT monts... CAN i fins something like this in Toronto or Midwest regions?
the traveller's check is the probably the cheapest/easiest way to achieve this, and should be easily available in TO or chicago.
that said, i vouch for justin also, he did a great job on my couplers
Talk to Justin Gullickson in Calgary can get you set up! http://starcitycycles.com/ Buy the frame and send it to Justin and he will get them on for yah.
In the way....
El Vaquilla hubiese jugado Bike Polo.
Send this photo here. There. I fixed it.
Credo quia absurdum
I am just curious here: what is the metal contraption bolted to the seat tube? It looks like a bottle opener...
Forget couplers and what not, if you have a bottle opener on your frame, you're set!!!
Tiago Leitman @
Rio Bike Polo
here is an excellent option at
a new brand designed by Axel and built by Marino
also the bike bag with specific airlines specifications is available
www.VeloLucuma.com Polo Bikes
Anyone already try the Velolucuma one?
Velolucuma has their bikes made through Marino Bike, and I have a coupled Marino frame and it is fantastic!
i have a velolucuma travel frame. the design is simple and it works. no complaints yet ,but I haven't had it very long nor traveled with it.
Someone mentioned it and the Marino coupling system (Velolucuma) looks pretty similar to the Ritchey Breakaway system
Damn I wish they still made those.
The only reason anyone does anything.
For the lulz.
That's the Ti cross. They still make that frame.
everytime you open your mouth all I hear is angels.
I preach the gospel
one of my favorites, no doubt.
Do you have the geometry? I'd be interested. It felt really nice when I was poppin wheelies on it! :D
I actually do not. It's a medium, for what that's worth. I'd imagine it's not a far cry from a 54cm Joust?
You can email Lou (but be prepared to wait awhile for a response): firstname.lastname@example.org
So I just got my S&S coupled frame.
Top tube coupler no problems.
On the down tube, I just can't fit the second retaining ring, in a way that the nut will slide over. I've made sure it's sitting in the groove, but the nut still catches on it.
With 1 ring it works fine, and seems to tighten correctly.
Will that be ok? Or a bad idea...
I'm going to take it all apart, and try again, but I've sat in front of it for 2 hours now.
i'm not sure what you mean by retaining ring and nut. there's only one moving part on s&s couplers. the teeth should interlock and the ring engage the threads and tighten. in my recollection both are standard thread, but did you try reversing the direction?
Without the retaining rings, the nut can just come off the coupler, it's what holds it in place. If you look at the coupler, there is a small groove, where two retaining rings go into (see on the right hand side, just behind the teeth)
In it, go two of these
If you are cleaning it, and want to remove the nut, you have to take it off.
It tightens no problem, I'm just wondering if I'm taking a risk, by only using 1 retaining ring.
The risk you run by using only one retaining ring is that the coupling sleeve could be pulled off of the non-threaded side (that joint would be uncoupled) if the sleeve ever popped off of the retaining ring or if the retaining ring ever escaped the groove.
In real life, you'd likely just notice that the bike feels squishy (like the coupler were loose) and you might wreck the threads on that joint. Not life-threatening, but not a great outcome.
What's probably happening is either
1) the second ring is riding the ring that's already installed or
2) the second ring is slightly out of round and poking up from the groove too much
Possibility 2 is the easier one to test: just swap the rings and see if you can thread the sleeve with ring "b" instead ring "a"
I know when I was messing around with my coupling sleeves before/after powdercoating, I had some issue with the the retaining rings. One of the things to note is that the rings aren't full washers, but rather coils with about 1.8 turns. You want to make sure that if the first coil ends at around 11 o'clock, the second coil doesn't start until after 11 o'clock. It's tough to fit them in if you don't align them
Ah, that could be it, I didn't try changing the orientation. I'll give it a go