No, that's the worst of both worlds.
26" vs 700c...thoughts?
I used to ride 700c polo. I now ride 26" polo because of the maneuverability. I think eventually it will all be 26" but many courts are still mostly 700c...
What's your thoughts on the subject? and what about Tire choices? (i like primo comet 26x1.5 85-100psi)
Although I've never tried it. Could be wrong. The main issue for me would be toe overlap with this set up.
There are already threads about this no? I seem to recall mentioning 26" Schwalbe Marathon Plus before.
MMMMMBOP
Wheel sizes: http://www.leagueofbikepolo.com/forum/general/2009/10/04/for-polowhy-a-2... (though it got pretty off-topic, might as well let that one die).
There's also a couple threads about tires. It really helps to keep only one topic per thread.
I prefer 26's but I also run really big tires 26x2.3 so the overall diameter is closer to a 700 with narrow tires, or to be more precise a 650b wheel and tire.
Skid & Destroy
Axles of Evil
700's are just as manueuverable as 26's. As timtim pointed out, tire size can make your 26's as large as 700's. I prefer 700's because of frame choices. I'd rather ride something with a steeper headtube than a raked-out MTB. With trick track frames starting to flood the market, toeverlap is not an issue with longer top tubes, and are unbelievably nimble. But, to each their own.
-700c can handle like a 26" when the tires are close in size. I believe a 26 x 2.3" was mentioned before. A 26 x 1 - 1.75" will handle much better because the center of gravity is lower and your axles can be close together creating a tighter turning radius.
-Also if you pin identical gear ratios against each on different wheel sizes, you'll find that the smaller wheels will have more acceleration than larger wheels. When most standard courts aren't long enough to reap the benefits the speed of 700c's, you must error on the side of acceleration and handling to win games.
MKE 05-06
CHI 07-Pres.
you must error on the side of acceleration and handling to win games.
err
MMMMMBOP
Agreed - its all about the frame geometry plus bar setup and how yer noodle+brain interfaces with your wheeled mech apendage. That is to say no right answer.
For whatever mechanical advantage is worth, 700x32c with 28/18 is pretty much the same as 26x2.0 with 28/17.
Good points tucker. I still really like my 1x1 it handles really well for me, I can whip it around really easily. My prior bike was a 700c road bike frame, I didn't like the handling as much, and I really didn't like the toe overlap.
Skid & Destroy
Axles of Evil
Well, I used to ride 700c on my MTB frame just because it was the wheelset I had and I broke the road frame they were on and then got my current polo frame. I liked it because they closed up the 5-hole tremendously, but once I put 26" wheels on it and, most likely because that's what it was intended to take, it handles much better. I also like being a bit lower to the ground. While it's probably not a huge difference, I can feel it and my center of gravity is a bit lower and more balanced.
OGT-COMOPOLO
700s. Only got one bike (2 different wheelsets). I suppose as I start "taking it more seriously" I will probably buy a 26" frame and build a complete polo bike. Stayin fixed though...just sayin.
26" have shorter spokes, so much more strong wheels, with 700 you will spend your life truing wheels
Rik
London Bike Polo
Yep I have considered this as well and thinking of going with 10" wheels on a folding bike .. but really i haven't seen a huge difference in strength between a 26" or 700c .. the Velocity deep v's hold up extremely well and wheel shields will only make it better .. stop ramming into each other and its not such a issue anymore .. I think the last 2 times my front wheel got warped was from full on ram-jams with 3 or more players in a polo-clusterfuck .. and that only happens when we drink like super heros and play polo like The Mesoamerican ballgame the Myans played and losers get their heads chopped off.
......BallAholics...Multiple Scoregasms...Thundercock...
I think the last 2 times my front wheel got warped...
This indicates there were more than two times. I've only ever had one wheel severely tacoed and it was when I foolishly ran into someone semi-perpendicular at FULL speed (and there were broken spokes, it was already untrue, etc.). I assure you the difference in strength between 700c and 26" is NOT negligible. I now run 48hole on both the front and the rear and they are laced to Chukkers. They are bombproof.
MMMMMBOP
..well it prolly is more then 2 times ..we do drink a lot here sheesh .. but I am talking about minor warps .. nothing that would prevent me from playing ..I had more damage done to my derailleur then my wheels .. mostly from Kent pretending hes a monster truck and riding over me ..
if your gonna play bike polo you have to accept that shit might get broken .. I shake my head when I see a $2000 fixe out on the court ..
...BallAholics...Multiple Scoregasms...Thundercock...
Kent IS a monster truck. You guys haven't banned him yet? Wow! Does he still flex his muscles before each game for the benefit of horny messengers?
As to your main point: I agree with you wholeheartedly that we have to accept that our shit might (and will) get broken playing this sport. I still contend, though, that in terms of strength 26" wins.
MMMMMBOP
i did 26 front and 700c rear, fixed, for a while. steeper headtube+nice acceleration.
i also have a pretty much entirely straight fork.
+10 for the wheel durability point
also, 26x1.25+ is easier to roll over the ball without dabbin than 700x30 in my experience
26" are like condoms. they make total sense but don't feel as good.
just wait till you ride my poojoe thrift store score. she's a dog animal beast on the court. make you wanna bring that magma back to walmart.
---------------------------
carve. smash. eat shit.
magma!? thats what your poopjoe will melt down into as i burn by you on my MAG-NA!
26". high flange DH or trials hubs. double or triple wall DH rims. 2.1 tires. I like the bontrager comfort hardcase tires. Been riding them since august and haven't flatted yet. They're pretty good on ice too. This setup can be kind of heavy but it's worth the sacrifice. I shelled out the $70 for a WTB laserdisc DH rim for the front and I laced it to a Echo trials hub. It's surprisingly light(although only come in 32h) and it's damn near impossible to knock out of true. Sure beats the countless $30 rims I've replaced after 3 weeks of constant truing before inevitable total destruction. I haven't trued it since I first laced it up. Only replaced busted spokes. still rolls perfectly.
I'm in the early stages of getting a custom polo bike built, by early I mean I don't know whether to go 700 or 26. I've been a 700 polo rider from the beginning but after browsing past posts 26" may be the way to go for a custom frame. Is there anyone out there that has made the 700 to 26" leap after being a lifer to the road wheel? Was is a good choice or did you hate it?
My 2c: borrow/build/buy a production 26" bike and then tell the builder how you want it changed.
... Not that you care that I can't afford it, but if I had the cash or connection to be thinking about a custom polo frame, I'd take something I already love and ask the builder to tweak it little ways to make it just right.
I started with 700c, really liked it. But broke it / wheels too many times.
Went to 26", really liked it. But the axles were a little far a part (ye olde 5 hole) and then the headset gave up.
Went back to 700c. Blew up another good 36hole wheel. Rebuilt it with a 36 chukker, and I have to say it's robust! So that's what I'm riding.
Anyway, if I went custom 26" I'd get couplers, ~1" shorter wheelbase, and more setback for the seat tube.
Custom 700c I'd get couplers and more setback for the seat tube.
dreaming ...
Devin
700c rear and 26" front. trust me.
I rode 700's for years on my polo bike and switched to 26's when i got a joust. I like them for a few reasons, a few i didn't think that it would influence. Most of all the clearance to go in front of your front wheel with a mallet, which i've been using more and more to cross over for passes and shots. The tight angles of the frame help with this also, but the wheel size has more to do with the amount of clearance. They are a little lighter than 700's considering the spoke legnth and loss of rim material, which means less rotational mass and a quicker wheel. I have chukkers laced four cross with 36 DT Swiss 2.0mm spokes to white industry track hubs. They are really light for how much abuse they have taken, i think i have trued them twice since i built them about a year ago. They do however open your five hole. All things in consideration i like 26's for polo. Get that frame bulder to make a reinforced yoke and up the wall thickness on the seat stays a little bit to keep that rear end stiff, the joust is a little whippy even with my weight.
To me the smaller wheels are easier to maneuver the ball around. I like that when I have the ball and maybe even sometimes when I'm playing defense or receiving a pass. When I'm in goal I think, if my wheels where bigger could probably block more shots.
http://leagueofbikepolo.com/forum/gear/frames/2011/02/16/250-custom-crom...
loving mine, not posted to bikes yet, waiting on a fork and new hoops to build up some 48 hole 26" tank wheels.
i ride 700c up front 26" in the rear. best of both worlds.