I had not thought about having braze on posts added. That is probably much cheaper than the Paul Components, and would allow me to put the posts on the lower side of the seat stays (if I so chose).
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700c with V-brakes
I've been toying with the idea of putting a 700c on a frame built for a 26" wheel. The clearance is there, so it will fit. The frame is built for v-brakes, and I want to continue to use v-brakes. In my own searches online, I've only found one pair of v-brakes that will fit: http://www.amazon.com/Paul-Component-V-Type-Brake-Silver/dp/B000OQKVC2 Does anyone know of any alternatives which allow for this much adjustment? How much power do you lose by adjusting the pads up that far on the cantilever?
Has anyone used these? They are a bit expensive, but if they are good, it could be cool. Anyone with build experience using v-brakes on a 700c wheel, please chime in and let me know if it was worth it. If you did it another way, I'm very interested in what you did. I've seen some 29er frames that could be good as well. I worry that their wheelbase is longer than desired though.
Discuss.
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what's the reasoning behind wanting to use 700c wheels?
Sup John, it's Alias.
I'm interested in 700c mostly for the larger diversity of parts. I like the 26", don't get me wrong. It's plenty strong and so far they have worked well. There's also just a curious part of me that just likes the idea of it.
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hey man. so, in general i'd say you're better off using parts designed to work together. but if you wanna give it a shot just to satisfy a curiosity, why not.
i wouldn't expect a big performance boost from the larger wheels (wheelbase will stay the same) but i have ridden a bike with the mavic adapter and it seemed to work great.
good luck.
http://www.mavic.com/en/wheels/mountain-bike/accessories/Caliper-Brake-A...
I used on of these to use 700c wheels in a mountain bike frame. They work very well as they stiffen up the seat stays as well as allowing for V-brakes. A bit expensive (£25 each at the time, I was in the UK then) but cheaper than Paul components. Playing on the thing (rear brake only, I could only afford one brake adaptor) felt good. I was using an aluminum mountain bike with 26" wheels and changed to a piece of junk 80's steel frame mountain bike that I jammed the 700c wheels into. Short and high it felt. I would have stuck with it but by chance I found a lovely frame, which I still use, on ebay and then I spent far too much time and money on messing with other parts.
Oh, that's pretty clever. I like that. The short and high ride would be something to adjust to, but with an angled top tube, the stand over should still be comfortable.
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The frame I used would be considered "too small" for me so putting taller wheels on (and extra height on the seat post, bars and stem) kept the relative "shortness" of the small mtb frame. Messing with bike geometry on the cheap is fun. I look at the folks using 700 rear and 26 front and get to thinking...
When I first started playing, I had an old Diamondback that I put 700c wheels on, then mounted a caliper brake on the rear. Somehow everything worked out just fine, until I had the cash to upgrade to something made for 700c. I didn't like how the 26 inch wheels handled, being used to the twitchy low speed handling of road frames. It looked goofy as hell, but then again, most polo bikes do. It had the added advantage of putting me super high in the air, so with a long mallet my reach was huge.
maybe you want to have a look at my profile, watch my brakesetup on my 700c wheel-bike ..take care
usually, putting 700c wheels on a frame built for 26" wheels is a recipe for a hot mess.
instead of putting $100+ into a Paul brake, I'd suggest you get a frame off craigslist that was intended for 700c wheels and pay someone to braze on v brake posts (although maybe you could even luck out and find one of those commuter/cruiser frames that already sport v brakes).
good luck!