Jump to Navigation

Login / Register

St Cago bike polo mallets DZR bike shoes for street and bike polo Velolocuma bicycles Riding in Circles

Tulsa

Javascript is required to view this map.

Tulsa BIke Polo

Founded: 
December 2008
Club rep: 
pdillo
Region: 
South Central

Tulsa! I will be flying into Tulsa Airport on Wednesday Aug 22 at 4:30p to stay with a friend who lives in Ft. Smith Arkansas. I was hoping you guys would be playing Polo Wednesday Night, I might be able to come hang out and play a few Rounds before heading off to Ft. Smith. Do you guys still play on Wednesday Nights at Ziegler Park?

Please shoot me a text: 916-337-5292

Sam

fyi OK is invited to the Wild West Bench minor in NM. dates look like memorial day May 26/27. Hit us up let us know whatcha think. State vs. State

All your shots are block by I.

Hey Fellow Polistas,
We were in the big rain out at October Fest tonight, so if you haven't been, we have FIVE tickets left to give away,

It costs 6 to get in, 7 bucks for a cup of beer, 19 for a pichter, etc.
So $5 worth of tickets for the asking,

Must pick up,

email me, October Fest closes at PM Snday.
Jeff

This is where I read about the method of attaching mallet heads to poles I am using.

http://321polo.net/2011/09/simple-mallet-mounting-style-is-straight-sex/

I have a couple of variations on mounting from his description.

I start by determining how much to cut to have the screw go into the nut inside the shaft about 4 turns. You can 'dip stick' into the hole, touch the nut, then pull your 'dipstick' back out, mark the shaft, and cut appropriately for your screw to start into the nut. I then run the countersunk screw down pretty tight on the end of the shaft to set the nut inside the shaft. Then I cut my teeth into the end of the shaft with a triangle file.

I countersink the screw head end on the pipe a bit more than 50% of what I want the countersink to end up like for depth.

I do not use a 1/2 inch drill bit, I use a 4 fluted 3/8 core drill followed by a 7/16 inch rotory file run in my die grinder.

After the 7/16 cone rotory file will pass straight through the hole, I heat the ski pole slightly with my propane torch, and slide it into the hole. I only heat it enough to insure it still takes a bit of force to pass the pole into the hole until the end of the pole touches the hole for the screw inside the HDPE pipe. We do not want to burn/melt the pipe with a hot ski pole, just soften it for the pole pass through the undersized hole, the teeth on the end biting into the pipe fully, and the countersink ending up perfect.

Then I run the 1/4 inch screw in with my screw driver, carefully watching the screw head depth into that shallow countersink. The top on these stainless screws is not flat, but slightly rounded, and I do not try to make that rounded head 'disappear' into the countersink, just the beveled edge.

I came to do this because I noted while experimenting and finding that a perfect countersink would pull too far into the head, leaving just a very thin amount of pipe between the screw countersink and the shaft.

Colin's head was the last mounted, and it came out the best. The upper part of the shaft is tightly gripped by the pipe because the hole was undersized and the hot pole softened the pipe allowing the pole to pass through. Same for the teeth filed into the end of the pole on the inside of the pipe opposite the countersink.
It seems after cool down the pipe remembered it wanted to recover some of it's orignal size, and gripped the pole tightly. Colin's head can be removed and reinstalled, but it is tight on the pole. That's because I do not drill a straight 1/2 inch hole, but rather end up with a tapered hole, matching the tapered shaft that made it using heat. Sort of like a taper lock fastener on aircraft.
Jeff

Yeah, later models are 6061 T6, which is very nice. I was of course thinking "Polo bike frame" but the rear angle is about 52 degrees, not 70. I suppose all mountain bike geometry is close to the same. At least my Diamond Back and this Fisher are the same angle on the back.

70 degrees is road bike geometry, and now polo bike I guess.

This bike is too nice as is to tear up, I will keep it for a trail bike. So, now I am ready to go ride some trails as well. I will work the creaks and groans out of it, and keep it.

This bike is also fast becoming a donor bike. Joy & I rode a little bit today, and she complained her hips were hurting after a few height and angle adjustments on her stock Avenir seat. So she tried the Tassajara with the Bontrager seat on it, and you know where that Bontrager seat is now on .........Joy's bike!!

Off to eBay to look about for more Bontrager seats, that seat was extremely comfortable. I want one on the Tassajara again, and my Fuji hybrid as well.

I bet they are too expensive for now.
Jeff

I found a spot that looked rusty on the frame, and put a magnet to the frame when I got home. Chromally steel, not aluminum.

This frame looks like a shorter wheel base than the Diamond back, and the rear down tubes may well be at the important 70 degrees for a dropout change out. So it may handle better with a BMX fork put on it like I did the Diamond Back.

This is a real quandry now because this is a nice bike as it sits.

I will have to think modding this bike over for a while.
Jeff

I guess I have an Aluminum one so there not the same.

I picked up that little Gary Fisher Tassajara off craigslist today. I liked the look of the geometry. It seemed less aggressive than my Diamond Back, but now I think they are the same rear frame angles.

Also, I did not do any research, and it turns out this is very likely a 6061 T6 aluminum frame. So, I guess I just bought a nice little mountain bike to leave pretty much as is and ride. I won't be hauling this out to get bruised on the courts against steel frames.

It came with a nice red and black rear carrier, which my wife wants, so that makes the bike cost to me about $25 after taking that part off, not bad. It also has a Bongtranger seat.
Jeff

This is more or less the bike I have. I love it!

Good morning if you are awake early, or maybe it's time to GO TO BED!!! I am out here on O/T, and already worked almost 2 hours. So, we are taking a short break.

If Colin is reading this, and has time, zip me an email. I have your mallet finished, with options. The options would be a few different heads. So I have not yet lock tighted the screw. It would be best to lock tight it today, this evening or whatever.The current, and best head is 75 grams, just like your old head. Oveall weight is 380 grams. There are larger and fewer lightning holes in the mallet head.

Your mallet handle got about 1.5 inches shorter due to worn out hole, and cut back for the new type screw in shaft installation. I added dowel inside to lengthen your handle, and put an old MTB Grip on it. It is really nice and cushy. The length was returned to the back end in case the 3 inch dowel added weight, it is in your palm, not the end of your mallet.

But if it is not to your liking, we can cut it back to your original hockey tape end point before your PVC end cap. Your PVC end cap had bit the dust BTW, cracked to pieces.

I will bring some tools, someone bring hocky tape to finsh/modify this mallet if Colin shows up.

There are also some other interesting options that can be done to these mallet heads, we can talk about Sunday. I am going to do one of my own to experiment with.

I want to get some more HDPE, Yellow and black. We could replace that straight yellow HDPE with a bent black one, and get roll ouot onthe ball when it goes in that corner. Let me know on the pipe, I would like to get some after work.
Jeff

Okay,last post for the night. Typically 19 - 5 gallon buckets of paint, for a 60 x 120 court.

So $800 plus sand.

Back to the City footing the bill, except of course, I do have a Mega Millions ticket.
Good night
Jeff

You can play with color combinations here http://www.tennisuniversal.com/List/156/0/Color_Chart_with_Court_Layouts...

The Light Green and the Beige might be good under all lighting conditions. This paint is $87 a gallon with sand in it, no tax no delivery calcualed.

It would take some label reading down at "The Store" to see if that is Acrylic latex, whic I doubt.

I do know we can get our own sand chep enough.

If you flip through the DIY part, you can tell they are pouring out paint, and sweeping the paint with brooms to apply it.

I am sure there is a paint calculator on the site, I haven't looked that hard yet.

Jeff

okay, my first hit is Arylic latex and prices are on this site. http://www.doheny.com/poolsupplies/Tennis-Court-Coatings.html?gclid=CMv3...

Oh boy, an Amazon hit http://www.amazon.com/Duracourt-Tennis-Court-Paint-Gallons/dp/B002WKM2MK

$169 for 5 gallons of green. I can show you 5 gallons of white for $40.

Duracourt seems to be the thing. So, someone get hold of Sherwin Williams etc, and ask about tinting paint bought elsewhere.

Here is a How To DIY site http://www.tenniscourtpaint.net/
Jeff

I sure hope this is Tulsa only, I am going to go ahead and post here in this comments section.

I went by "This Store" today, they have maybe 40 or so 5 gallon buckets of Inerior/Exterior Latex paint for $40 per 5 gallon bucket.

I have been pricing paint for my house at upwards of $150 for 5 gallons. So this looks like deal. The paint color is white.

The question is, how long, if at all, would Latex exterior hold up on concrete exposed to the elements?

I have not researched this yet.

The other question is, if we buy white paint at "This Store", would Lowes or somewhere else tint the paint green for us?

I am going to research painting concrete, but wanted to get this out there for our group to read. If you are in the building trades, and know paint, post back here or email around.

"This Store" also has a lot of spray paint. not a wide color selection, but several useful colors for us, or individually if you want some paint @ $1.59 a can. I already picked up Orange and Red.

That is the latest news, we are talking about wall materials and all kinds of things to get this court up and running full speed, so stay tuned and please chime in with your ideas.

I am sure I will answer right back here tonight or tomorrow if I find out anything on paint.
Jeff

Yep, this is more or less the right place. Don't know anything about paint though. Maybe google how tennis courts are painted. I know we don't have permission to paint the court. It seems like it's possible to get permission and it does need a good painting. First goals, second walls, third something else then maybe painting. We love you in Tulsa Jeff and are happy you're with us.

Hey guys, this is very late notice, but we are hosting a tourney out here in Lubbock this weekend and wanted to see if you guys were interested in coming. The info is available over at Hub City Hardcourt on this here Internet website. Hope you guys can make it! We have places for everyone to stay too.

TULSA! Would like to find out when you play. I'm assuming it's at Tracy Park, but I don't know when. I'm in Pryor, was planning on driving down. Someone call me or something! 913-957-1550.

Nick

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
fixcraft.net